How to Remove Tar & Asphalt from Concrete
Always test on a hidden area first. Never mix cleaning chemicals — bleach and ammonia, or bleach and acids (including many bathroom/vinegar-based cleaners), release toxic gas. Follow the product label on every cleaner you use.
Before you start
- Never use an acid-based cleaner on sealed or decorative concrete — it etches the sealant permanently, an unrelated problem to the tar stain itself.
- Unsealed, porous concrete can absorb tar's oil into its pores; a genuinely old or large stain may leave a permanent faint shadow even after repeated degreaser treatment.
At a Glance
- Difficulty
- Hard
- Primary method
- Freeze and chip off, then degreaser or solvent scrub
- Water temperature
- Cool, solvent-led treatment
- Machine washable?
- No
- Success outlook
- Moderate to good on sealed concrete; porous unsealed concrete absorbs deeper
What You'll Need
- Ice or dry ice for hardening the tar
- A stiff scraper or putty knife
- A concrete-safe degreaser or mineral spirits
- A stiff outdoor brush
- Cat litter or sawdust (to absorb loosened residue)
Step-by-Step
- Harden the tar with ice, or dry ice for a stubborn patch, then chip off as much as possible with a stiff scraper before applying any liquid.
- Sprinkle cat litter or sawdust over any remaining soft residue to help absorb surface oil before scrubbing.
- Apply a concrete-safe degreaser or mineral spirits to the stain and let it sit according to the product's instructions.
- Scrub with a stiff outdoor brush, working the solvent into the concrete's texture, then rinse with a hose or bucket of water.
- Repeat the degreaser application for a stubborn or older stain, since concrete's porous surface often needs more than one round.
Cold Water vs Hot Water
Cold water isn't really the relevant variable on concrete — the mechanical freezing step uses ice or dry ice specifically to harden the tar for scraping, and beyond that, the degreaser or solvent does the real chemical work regardless of water temperature. Sealed decorative concrete has its own acid-etching risk to consider instead, which matters more here than heat.
If the Stain Has Already Dried or Set In
Tar that's been sitting on concrete for a long time, common in driveways after a delivery truck or roofing job, has often penetrated the concrete's natural pores if the surface isn't sealed, making a single degreaser pass insufficient. Repeated degreaser applications, sometimes over several days, along with the litter-and-scrub method, is the realistic approach for an old, deeply set stain, and a permanent faint shadow is a genuinely possible outcome on unsealed concrete.
What Not to Do on This Surface
Never use an acid-based cleaner on decorative or sealed concrete chasing a stubborn tar stain — acid etches the sealed surface permanently, an entirely separate problem from the tar stain itself. Don't skip the litter-or-sawdust absorption step for a large spill, since it captures loose oil before scrubbing spreads it across a wider area of porous concrete.
When to Call a Professional
A professional pressure-washing or concrete-cleaning service is worth considering for a large tar stain, especially on unsealed or porous concrete where the oil has likely penetrated below the surface. A small, fresh spot on sealed concrete is a reasonable DIY attempt with a degreaser and stiff brush.
The Full Picture
Concrete's porous, unsealed surface behaves differently from the fabric and hard-surface pairings elsewhere in this matrix, since tar's petroleum oil can genuinely soak into the material's natural pores the way it would into raw stone, rather than sitting purely on top the way it would on a sealed countertop.
The freeze-and-chip mechanical approach still applies and still helps reduce the amount of chemical treatment needed, though outdoor concrete stains are often larger and more weathered than a fabric stain, sometimes benefiting from dry ice for a more aggressive hardening effect on a stubborn patch.
A concrete-safe degreaser works on the same like-dissolves-like principle as mineral spirits on fabric, breaking down the heavy hydrocarbon structure so it can be scrubbed and rinsed away, though porous concrete typically needs more repeated applications than a sealed, nonporous surface would.
Sealed decorative concrete adds its own separate consideration: while it's more resistant to oil penetration than plain unsealed concrete, an acid-based cleaner can still etch the sealant permanently, which is a completely different failure mode from the tar stain and worth avoiding regardless of how stubborn the stain seems.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Will a tar stain ever fully disappear from my driveway?
- On sealed concrete, usually yes with repeated degreaser treatment. On unsealed, porous concrete, an old or large stain can leave a permanent faint shadow, since the oil has genuinely soaked into the material's pores rather than sitting on the surface.
- Can I use dry ice instead of regular ice to remove tar from concrete?
- Yes, and it can be more effective for a large or stubborn patch, since dry ice reaches a much colder temperature and hardens the tar more thoroughly, making it easier to chip off in larger pieces before any degreaser is needed.
- Is it safe to use a pressure washer on a tar stain?
- It can help rinse away loosened residue after degreaser treatment, but pressure alone rarely removes tar on its own, since water doesn't dissolve petroleum oil — a degreaser or solvent step is still necessary first.
Surface caution: acid etching on decorative/sealed concrete; prolonged staining once it penetrates the pores.